Iceland has some diverse scenery. Close to the line separating the European and American tectonic plates, where new land is being formed, there are recent volcanic lava flows and ash, almost barren of vegetation, sulphurous emissions of steam, hot springs and craters filled with bluish water. In the north west there are more mature areas of layered rocks, coated with a green vegetation, Angelica bursting forth in its wetter areas. There are mountains and gorges and many, many spectacular waterfalls. Glaciers fed from ice caps flow down valleys, melting into lakes with little icebergs.
When I visited in July there were flowers to admire, thrift and thyme colonising the newly formed black ash and grey moss coats new lava. Lupins, an invasive species thrives in Iceland, starting to form the new soil. Later dwarf and downy birch takes over, with an undergrowth of geraniums and buttercups. There are birds to watch, listen to and identify, which you get close enough to see their markings, and in Hornstrandir I also saw Arctic foxes, a real treat. Iceland is steeped in history but it is revealed in sagas, not in castle ruins, though there are plenty of museums with old and not so old artefacts.
I visited after the peak of the Covid 19 pandemic, and while Britain still cowered with fear Iceland was getting on with life as normal. Although I was told there were much fewer tourists, I found full hotels and guesthouses outside of Reykjavik, and everywhere the better restaurants were bursting, with little room for a solitary walker. In normal times Iceland must be overflowing with visitors. However some places were closed and tours (ice climbing, kayaking) I would like to have joined were cancelled due to lack of custom, which made me wonder where do the people stay who normally go on these things?
On most of my trips I walk long distance paths between one place and another over periods of three to eight weeks. People do walk across Iceland from north to south giving a trip of this sort of length, however, from their blogs the middle bit did not seem too interesting, although if there was more than one of you, a safe crossing of one of the ice fields would be possible and add interest. Being alone I decided instead to hike in four different areas, including the popular Langavegur trail which I lengthened by preceding it with the quieter Hellismannaleið trail and following it with the Skogar trail. This was the best part of my trip due to the good weather (not to be relied upon), the hut facilities on the routes (flush toilets and showers) and the new volcanic landscape. It also had transport links in the form of the hikers' "Highland bus". Elsewhere, public transport outside urban areas was limited, infrequent and expensive. Where it did exist, it could take the form of a small minibus and as I learnt, you have to stand right on the bus stop with a keen eye for the inconspicuous vehicle to get on board. Outside of the most popular areas Iceland is not kind to backpackers with regard to transport. Hitching is possible but slow. Transport difficulties made me wish I had planned an A to B route rather than hiking in four different areas over the four weeks I was in Iceland.
Weatherwise, in July I was reminded of the west coast of Scotland, a lot of rain at times. High winds and heavy rain kept me in Isafjordur for three days, and continuous wet weather put a damper on my walk in the Ásbyrgi area. But when it was not raining it was lovely.
The Cicerone book "Trekking in Iceland" was very useful although its references to bus routes were incorrect, at least during the current time of Coronavirus. The hiking maps I bought were of little use, except in showing me the Blaskogavegur trail (which does not appear in the above mentioned book). A GPS with the planned routes downloaded onto it is invaluable, especially in the mist.
Links to each section of my walk:
